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working title studios | sustainable luxury fashion
About taken from German Sustain Concept*:

"After working together successfully for many years, fashion designer Antonia Goy and architect Bjoern Kubeja launched their own fashion label in 2018. Here, exquisite tailoring meets timeless elegance and sustainable, enduring design. Working Title uses only the finest natural materials such as mulesing-free wool, cashmere, organic silk, organic cotton and Tencel from certified European manufacturers and rejects man-made fibres in order to minimise harmful residues through wear and disposal. The collections are manufactured in Germany, Italy and Poland."

* German Sustain Concept is a programme initiated by the Fashion Council Germany under the auspices of the Federal Ministry for the Environment, Nature Conservation and Nuclear Safety (BMU) with partners Neonyt, the global hub for fashion, sustainability and innovation of Messe Frankfurt, Bikini Berlin and Showroom.de.

Based in Berlin

HAG
Fashionmeetsorganic  Brand  sustainablecompany  sustainablefashion  eco_brand  Organic_Fabric  natural  Germany  berlin  wool  Cashmere  Silk  Tencel  europe  Man-made 
18 hours ago by eocas
Spider dragline silk as torsional actuator driven by humidity | Science Advances
Spider silk at 70% humidity twists in one direction, and contracts, making it potential actuator.
spider  silk  torsional  actuator  artificial  muscle  research  technology  materials  science 
14 days ago by asteroza
An Essay by Miho Nonaka | Kenyon Review Online
[So good. There's really no good way to quote this one, so here are just a few sections.]

"Heavenly Worm

Mrs. Itō, our fourth-grade teacher, drew a new kanji character on the board: 蚕. “Worm from heaven,” she announced, “as you can see.” Heaven splits open like a curtain (天) and inside it dwells the worm (虫). For each student, she took out five worms from her basket and put them in a small paper box to take home. Having just hatched from their eggs, these worms were still covered in little black hairs. That’s why at this stage they are called kego (hairy baby), Mrs. Itō told us. To feed these dark babies, julienne your mulberry leaves first."



"Platinum Boy, 2006

After decades of research, Japanese silkworm breeders discovered a reliable method of hatching exclusively male silkworms. Female silkworms eat more, sleep more, take up more space, and are measurably less efficient in transforming mulberry leaves into silk. The verdict was clear: female silkworms are inferior for silk production.

Silk spinners and kimono weavers are unanimous in their praise of male silk: their thread is consistently finer, sturdier, glossier, whiter, and their cocoons are easier to harvest when boiled.

The birth site of Platinum Boy is literally black and white. When you look at a piece of paper where silkworm eggs are laid, white eggs are the empty shells from which male larvae have already hatched. They will thrive on the diet of tender mulberry shoot which, combined with their spit, will eventually turn into raw silk, translucent like frosted glass. The dark eggs contain female larvae that will never hatch and only keep darkening."



"Ten Thousand Leaves I

Compiled in the mideighth century, Man’yōshū (Collection of Ten Thousand Leaves) is the oldest Japanese anthology: more than forty-five hundred poems in twenty books. In the sweltering heat of the attic, I wasn’t looking for any particular motif when I happened on poem No. 2495, composed by Kakinomoto no Hitomaro, a low rank courtier and one of the “Saints of Japanese Poetry”:
like my mother’s
silkworms confined
inside cocoons,
how can I see my love
who lives secluded at home?

Poem No. 2991 is almost the same poem by another poet, simply tagged “unknown”:
like my mother’s
silkworms confined
inside cocoons,
sadness clouds my heart
when I cannot see her

The motif of a silk cocoon as the inaccessible, lyrical interior goes back to the dawn of Japanese poetics. The cocoon encases the image of the beloved, the poet’s longing that keeps building inside, and in my poem it holds the mother as a mythical seamstress, stitching blue in each wrist of her unborn daughter."



"職人 I

I used to blame my grandmother on my father’s side, who was described to me as fierce, frantic, funny, a destructive visionary and unsuccessful business entrepreneur during the critical times of the Second World War. When I felt defeated by the radical pull of my own emotion, I would attach them to the face of the woman I had never met in person, only in a fading picture where she stands next to my young father without glasses, still a student with surprisingly gentle eyes.

My father recently told me during one of our late-night international calls from Tokyo: “Your grandfathers were both shokunin (craftsman), remember? It’s in your DNA, too.” His father had come from a large family of silk farmers. After he left home, adopting the newly introduced Singer sewing machines, he began manufacturing Japanese cloven-toed socks, the traditional kind that used to be hand-sewn, and during the war, he took the assignment to sew parachutes for the Imperial Japanese Army Air Force. While he worked under dimmed light, my young father put up his primitive drawing of warplanes on the wall, covered in fine grains of sand."



"Small Things

They say (I love the convenience, but who are “they”?) that attention to detail is a characteristic of the Japanese. I am drawn to small things: tadpoles, silica beads, star sands in a vial, a notebook the size of a thumbnail, fish scales, a nativity scene inside half a walnut shell. I am terribly myopic like my father, and I like things that are near. Large things loom over and terrify: airports, Costco, churches in Texas, the Tokyo Skytree, Mount Rushmore (those granite faces I once believed had surfaced in response to the historic atomic bombing), and that elusive word “global.”"



"Komako

It didn’t occur to me until I tried translating a few passages from Snow Country that the young geisha’s name Komako (駒子) means Pony Child. What inspired the author Kawabata to portray his heroine as a woman of equine grace? We don’t know her family name. On the other hand, we don’t know the first name of Shimamura, who is referred to only by his last name.

I imagine if your family name is a gate to the house, your first name must be its interior. In the days when the first book of Man’yōshū was composed, asking a maiden’s first name was synonymous with proposing to her. Knowing it meant possessing the person.

Komako’s body is translucent like a silkworm, and an unearthly room encloses her fruitless passion like a white cocoon. While writing Snow Country, Kawabata says he distanced himself from Shimamura, who serves merely as a foil to Komako. “As an author, I entered deep inside the character of Komako, but casually turned my back to Shimamura,” he writes in the afterward. “Especially in terms of emotion—Komako’s sadness is nothing other than my own sadness. . . .” And so it is; his heart has become subsumed into her heart."



"Body

I find it impossible to talk about the body (mine and everyone else’s) without sounding embarrassed or oddly distant. I don’t mean to self-deprecate, but it has been almost too fashionable, too charged a topic for me to feel safe around. (A cowardly thing to say—the truth is, no one is safe.)

I won’t pretend my body is a plain blockhouse, or a slab of flesh aching with desire or lack thereof. Who could have taught me to stay at home in my own body all the while I traveled from one country to another, turning from the spontaneous, if careless, music of my mother tongue to the cautious economy of English, reaching out, in the hope of actually reaching and being reached?

For the subjects most critical to me, I find no teachers. Perhaps there is not enough demand? I believe I am badly behind everyone and that I missed an opportunity to ask questions long ago. People my age in this country sound fluent in the body, discussing it with just the right amount of sarcasm and laughter without revealing much, like they have been on intimate terms with it since they learned to speak. I suppose I should have listened to the body harder, without ulterior motives."
mihononaka  silk  essays  canon  howwewrite  2017  silkworms  multispecies  japan  japanese  language  gender  via:ayjay  poetry  writing  fabric  textiles  srg  glvo  insects  history  cocoons  craft  translation  languages  childhood  change  materials  process  form  details  weaving  texture  morethanhuman  shinto  bodies  body  small  slow 
4 weeks ago by robertogreco
Bolt Threads – Microsilk
Spiders produce silk fibers with remarkable properties including high tensile strength, elasticity, durability and softness.

We’ve developed technology to replicate this amazing process sustainably at large scale. Our knit ties are our first prototype product, available in a limited edition release
products  bio  biotech  spider  silk 
8 weeks ago by sprague
Philippe le Bac Cashmere & Co
Cashmere brand which started 1936 in Paris / France but then set dust until 2004 take-over by the PLB Group which is registered in Hong Kong but operates (also manufacturing) in Shanghai.
450 resellers worldwide and 20 own stores in Greater China of which 10 in Shanghai.
Design office in Europe

Their cashmere is sourced directly from goat herders in Mongolia with semi-domesticated goats.

For Spring and Summer collection blends cashmere with silk, bamboo, modal and milk jerseys. Also paired with denim, leather and other accessories.

HAG
Cashmere  mongolia  HongKong  Shanghai  China  France  Brand  wool  Silk  bamboo  modal  Fashionmeetsorganic 
november 2018 by eocas
Recombinant Spidroins Fully Replicate Primary Mechanical Properties of Natural Spider Silk - Biomacromolecules (ACS Publications)
So they got bacteria to build silk proteins with are almost twice as long as real spider silk proteins, thus the doubled protein is now a near match in performance to true spider silk fiber (true spider silk fiber benefits from good protein design and spinner design though). They seem to think it should be possible to use the fusing method to build even longer proteins to up the strength.
biomimicry  bacteria  GMO  spider  silk  protein  fiber  manufacturing  materials  science  research  technology  synthetic  biology 
august 2018 by asteroza

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