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Why Lagos Is West Africa’s Capital Of Culture | Liam Freeman & Seb Emina | Vogue
..This month, with a spree of glamorous goings-on that includes Lagos Fashion Week and the ART X Lagos contemporary art fair, the city enters the most exciting phase of its cultural calendar.

..The city’s booming art scene tells a similar story. “Most art fairs involve clean white walls and a very solemn experience. We’re different in that we respond to our location,” Art X Lagos founder Tokini Peterside tells Vogue when we meet at Miliki, a members' club in the city's Victoria Island district. Set up in 2016, ART X Lagos is often described as the Frieze of West Africa (this year unveiling new work by British Nigerian artist Yinka Shonibare) – but the comparison isn’t quite that clear-cut. “ART X Lagos is a proudly Lagosian entity, and we aim to capture the essence and spirit of our city,” explains Peterside, who, uniquely, has collaborated with the music industry to include curated ART X Live! events alongside the more conventional gallery shows. “Nigeria has the most thriving music scene on the continent, and we felt we couldn’t be in this city and not nod to that.”

..When in 2002 the Nigerian government banned fabric imports in an effort to safeguard its withering textile industry, an opportunity presented itself to then-law student Lisa Folawiyo. She visited local markets, began looking more closely at the ubiquitous wax-print ankara fabrics she had grown up with, and then, as she elegantly puts it, “I just started making clothes.” Today her eponymous label, a favourite with Lupita Nyong’o and Solange Knowles, is one of the most coveted on the continent; her store, where we meet, an immaculate white cube in the city’s affluent Ikoyi neighbourhood. It was Folawiyo’s signature mix – traditional West African prints, luxurious silks, sharp tailoring – that pioneered the slew of Nigerian names gaining international recognition today, including Maki Oh and Orange Culture (see below). Her heavily embellished pieces can take up to 240 hours to complete (making the €500 starting price for a dress seem reasonable) – but while the process is somewhat rococo, Folawiyo’s style was born out of a simple need. “I couldn’t find a Nigerian designer whose clothes I actually wanted to wear,” she says. “Fashion was more like costume. Now that’s changed; we are taking ourselves more seriously and so Nigerian design talent is being taken more seriously worldwide.”

..Dakar native Sarah Diouf may have only launched Tongoro Studio in the spring of 2016, but she is already turning heads – namely Beyoncé’s – with her uninhibited, diaphanous designs. Diouf was one of the first rising talents to be featured on the @vogue Instagram this year – but behind the gloss and glamour is a businesswoman with a watertight plan and a passion for establishing “Made in Africa” as a universal seal of quality. “Around five years ago we started seeing an increasing number of African designers emerging, but all of the brands I really admire were positioning themselves as luxury,” says the 30-year-old, an alumnus of Paris’ Inseec Business School. “At a time when this market is not fully established, I felt that if we are going to get people to try African fashion it has to be at a price they are willing to pay.” (The Tongoro dress Beyoncé wore on her yacht in Italy this summer retails at €120.)

..Hailing from South Africa's Xhosa culture, 31-year-old Laduma Ngxokolo experienced the male initiation ceremony of ulwaluko at the age of 19. The ritual – circumcision followed by a month of rural solitude, during which initiates give away all their clothes and build a new wardrobe afresh – had a profound effect on the designer, who chose to replace all his Westernised clothing with garments that paid homage to his culture. Soon after, at university, he began translating Xhosa beadwork onto knitwear using machining skills his mother had taught him as a teenager – and MaXhosa was born. Today, the knitwear brand employs a team of 30 people, with Ngxokolo overseeing the whole design process, from sourcing the local raw fibres through to the bespoke dying processes and, of course, the realisation of his vividly patterned wool and mohair “Made in South Africa” creations. Awards, international buyers and a scholarship at Central Saint Martins in London have followed, along with a range of rugs for Ikea’s hyped Överallt collection of African-designed pieces, launching next March. “It’s the first step in the right direction,” he says of an industry actually giving credit to the countries it has taken inspiration from for so long. “The next step will be to actually produce these designs in Africa.”
NaijatheGood  Lagos  Fashion  Africa 
14 hours ago by AfroMaestro
ChatterBlossom: Friday Photo Swoon – Plaid Prerogative
Plaid. Seems to my best friend lately. I don't think I ever would have said, "Why yes, I love plaid", but based upon my recent purchases, I most certainly do! I had always associated plaid with oversized grunge because I grew up in the '90s. Yes, it was cool then and made you feel tough, but I had never used plaid to look feminine or stylish until recently. But, as with most clothing, the 1940s/50s did it well in my opinion. And often, apparently! I feel like you couldn't shake a stick at a vintage clothing store without hitting at least a few plaid pieces. Same goes for my closet now. You've seen my most recent plaid outfit (which I lurv!) and on this week's Sunday Snag, you'll see a second!
fashion  women  clothing  40s  50s 
22 hours ago by rgl7194
Stefania Ferrario Bald, Boobs and Badass (NSFW) – Peter Coulson Photographer :: Blog
Models: Stefania Ferrario Vicious Models
Make-up: Leesy Cherie Mua & Joanna Blair @ @Dani Frankenstein MU Artist
model  fashion  hair  NSFW  australia 
3 days ago by rgl7194
Beauty Under Capitalism
Vote with your wallet when shopping for your beauty and self-care products using our lists. Give your money to independent business owners of color from marginalized genders.
consumerism  fashion  cosmetics 
3 days ago by thebestsophist

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