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Opinion | Are Mountain Climbers Selfish? - The New York Times
Selfish? No. Unable to see with absolute sobriety how dangerous their path is? Likely. But again, that doesn’t make them selfish, only human. Dying happens to someone else, until it doesn’t. The people who loved them didn’t do so in spite of their love for climbing, but because of it.

One truth goes to the heart of death in our community: You can’t fall out of love with something. Having known two of the three men who died on Howse Peak, I know that climbing made them feel alive. The question is — could we feel alive enough if we stopped? Most climbers think not.

I agree.
climbing  mountains  death  alpinism  safety 
april 2019 by pozorvlak
Rupert Rosedale obituary | From the Guardian | The Guardian
Other lives: He climbed some of the greatest alpine routes, including the Central Freney Pillar on Mont Blanc and the Walker Spur on the Grandes Jorasses
death  climbing  alpinism  avalanche 
april 2019 by pozorvlak
Watch "Snow anchors: how strong are they?" on YouTube
Place snow stakes with the convex surface towards the load, and leaving away from the load at 25°. In dense wet snow, a buried Coke bottle can be enough to abseil from!
alpinism  climbing  science  video 
may 2018 by pozorvlak
UKC Articles - Perfect Partners #9 - Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden
What have you learned from climbing with Paul?

I learned how to use Abalakov threads. It seems laughable now, but before climbing with Paul I always used rock anchors whenever possible. Strangely enough I had to replace my rack nearly every year. Now mountaineering is much cheaper. Thank you Paul.

mountains  climbing  alpinism  himalaya  expedition 
may 2018 by pozorvlak
Tommy Caldwell onsights Mt. Hooker in car-to-car ascent with Adam Stack -
North face big wall in Wyoming, 20 (or is it 15?) miles from the road head, summit at 3800m.
climbing  usa  alpinism  bigwall 
may 2018 by pozorvlak

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